• "that I may be recommended to your good grace,"
  • From: "an_pheist" Date: Mon Feb 28, 2005 7:41 am
    Subject: glove research stuff

  • "Pleaseth your lordship to be advertised..."
  • I have been researching this weekend in the library and online period pictures of gloves. Not so much extant gloves though I've run across a few of those as well but more paintings portraits statuary manuscript illustrations and so on.

    My main jumping off points were some costume books that were illustrated from period sources Boucher and Davenport Cunnington and a few others.

    Before the 16th century there is not very much. Then in the 16th century everyone is shown holding their gloves (and in a few rare instances wearing them) but its rather difficult to tell many details when they are wadded up in the hand. In the 17th century more portraits appear with people actually wearing gloves but the style of glove seems to change also.

    Before the 16th century its hard to generalize I still have too few examples.

    One detail I noticed is the 16th century glove seems In most cases to have some type of knotted cord on it. I assume this is used like a draw string to pull it tight for a more fitted glove. What is not clear to me either is how it is attatched to the glove, all I can tell is it dangles from the end. By the 17th century this detail vanishes completely. My assumption here too is that the 16th century gloves are more fitted than later. Certainly durer's 15th century gloves are virtually skintight. a 13th century illustration also had some kind of bow hanging off of it so likely this was the same cord.

    Comparing the 9 different modern patterns available from Vogue, I've found that more is the same than different they each have some variation to justify a separate pattern but the basic glove pattern. The trank (fingers and hand section) the thumb hole, thumb piece and fourchettes remain the same throughout all 9 patterns. What changes is the cuff. How long it is. And how much it is flared. And Then ornamentation. To What extent are these variation considerations for making period gloves? Btw, for What its worth vogue uses a French thumb. (Which according to a post on this list is the earlier of the two basic thumb types? is there any other advantage to One or the other?)

    Would it be useful to look at armoured gloves also? I am more interested In making cloth gloves, but apparently the glove fashion In Europe was started By crusaders mailed mits and the earliest examples seem to be of the early Plantagenet kings, and the clergy. although I read in one book that Carlolingian ladies liked to wear fur mittens... but I havent seen this elsewhere to verify something so early.

    Just for drothers I tried looking up photos of King Arthur and Robin Hood movies to see what gloves were worn but I didnt see any gloves at all. I also looked up gloves and laced/lace/lacing/ "lace up" and nothing popped up that wasnt totally in a goth and latex vein... not even recreationist.

    Anyway, I will stop here. If anyone has some comments to bounce off... I'd be interested and it would give me a clearer picture to focus on maybe.

    all the best,


  • 12th century
  • Stone effigies from tombs of
    1. Richard I "the Lionheart" (d. 1199) and
    2. Henry II, (d.1189) both at Rouen. Circular decoration visible on Henry's.
  • 13th century
  • Illustrations:
    1. Maciejowski Bible, Paris 1250.
    2. Portfolio of Villard de Honhecourt, Paris 1230-5.
    3. Treatise on Hunting. 1260-5
  • 14th century
    1. Luttrell Psalter: work gloves.
    2. Andrea da Firenze 1365 (kneeling man with beard appears to be wearing gauntlet style gloves.)
    3. Andrea da Firenze 1365 (4th "king" is holding gloves perhaps as sign of office.)
    4. Bible of Charles V.The presentation of the manuscript to Charles V by Jean de Vaudetar.1372. Charles removes gloves to read.
    5. Alan Strayler-Golden Book of St. Alban's. 1380. Edward III (middle left) wears white gloves
    6. Lisle Psalter Westminster. 1300-1330. Pontious Pilate.
    7. Pierre de Langtoft -the Chronicles in french verses- King Stephen, ca 1307-1327
  • 15th century
    1. Robert Campin, Nativity, Dijon, ca. 1425-30: (detail) work gloves.
    2. Limbourg brothers-Les très riches heures du Duc de Berry: Aout (August) 1412-16. (hunting party with gloves on both lords and ladies)
    3. Baldassare Estense or Antonio de Crevalcone-Family of Uberto de' Sacrati 1480s. (hunting gloves on father, fingerless gloves on mother)
    4. Albrecht Duerer.Self Portrait at 26. 1498. (much like the 16th century portraits the follow)
    5. Egerton Manuscript-The Four Humours. York. 1486. (one of the humours wears mittens)
    6. Ellesmere Manuscript. The Knight's Tale of Geoffrey Chaucer. 1400.
    7. Tapestry-Offering of the Heart. 1410. Flemish. (Lady with falcon and gloves)
    8. Guillaume Tardif-L'Art de Fauconnerie. 1492-3. Paris.(Falconry gloves)
  • 16th century
    1. Titian-Young Man with Cap and Gloves. 1512-1515.
    2. Titian- Man with Gloves. 1523.
    3. Corneille de Lyon-Portrait of a Man with Gloves. Dutch. 1533-1575 (1)
    4. Corneille de Lyon-Portrait of a Man with Gloves. Dutch. 1533-1575 (2)
    5. Jorge Afonso's workshop-Detail of the Setúbal Altarpiece . 1520-1530. Bishop's glove.
    6. Sir Henry Rowe. late 16th or early 17th century.
    7. Lorenzo Lotto-Gentleman with Gloves ca.1543
    8. Rosenberg at Ceský Krumlov Paris. Czech.
    9. Marten de Vos-Portrait of Antonius Anselmus,His Wife and Their Children, 1577. Dutch. (Wedding gloves on table, large insect on child.)
    10. Caravaggio-The Fortune Teller, 1596-97. Italian.(fourchettes clearly seen)
    11. Jean Clouet-Portrait of Francois I, King of France 1525-30
    12. Nicholas Hilliard-Portrait of George Clifford, The Earl of Cumberland 1590 (plate armoured gauntlet)
    13. Master MS-Crucifixion, 1506. Hungary. (Turkish (?) aristocrat with gloves and cane)
    14. Hans Holbein. Portrait of Unknown Young Man at his Office Desk. 1541
    15. Hans Holbein the Younger Portrait of a Man Holding Gloves and Letter ca 1540
    16. Hans Holbein the Younger Christina of Denmark, Ducchess of Milan 1538.
    17. Hans Holbein the Younger Christina of Denmark, Ducchess of Milan 1538. detail
    18. Hans Holbein- Henry VIII. 1540.
    19. Hans Holbein- De Vos van Steenwijk. 1541.
  • 17th century
    1. Rembrandt Harmensz. van Rijn-Portrait of a Man Holding Gloves, 1648. Dutch.
    2. Rembrandt van Rijn-Portrait of a Gentleman with a Tall Hat and Gloves, c. 1658/1660
    3. Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn-Portrait of Nicolaas van Bambeeck.1641
    4. Rembrandt Harmenszoon van Rijn-Jan Six,1654
    5. Daniel Mytens-Charels I, 1631
    6. Anthony van Dyck. Portrait of a Gentleman, Putting on his Gloves.
    7. Sir Anthony Van Dyck (1599-1641) Portrait of a Married Couple
    8. Marcantonio Bassetti(1588-1630) Portrait of an Old Man with Gloves.
    9. Bartholomeus van der Helst-Portrait of a Young Man in Military Costume,Dutch, 1650
    10. Bartolomé Esteban Murillo-A Knight of Alcántara or Calatrava, Spanish. ca. 1650–55.
    11. Queen Mary II with mantilla, fan, and white elbow-length gloves, 1690
    12. Frans Hals. A Young Man with a Glove. c. 1650